Those looking to check “walk the Saint Laurent runway” off of their bucket list would do well to pick up a bottle of peroxide and start a band. For so many of the label’s muses, strumming guitar on a stage is where their fashion fairy tale starts—their bedraggled home hair-dye jobs swinging this way and that as they lean toward a microphone with heavy, kohl rimmed eyes. It’s an image Hedi Slimane can’t seem to pull his gaze, camera lens, or creative inspiration away from. Since his arrival to the women’s label in 2012 he’s consistently served up clothing for the rock ’n’ roll bad girls he photographs and listens to.
The first year saw Liza Thorn, the Bay Area–born frontwoman of Starred, becoming a fixture for the designer—her porcelain profile appearing in his portrait exhibition, “California Song” at MOCA in Los Angeles, her throaty voice singing “Call from Paris” on the relaunched Saint Laurent website, and rumored to have inspired his “L.A. Woman” debut collection rife with bare faces and air-dried flaxen waves. Next it was onto the punk and pouting Sky Ferreira, who modeled the designer’s Pre-Fall 2013 collection—openly conceived as a rock star wardrobe—in a strict exaggerated cat-eye and voluminous double-processed swoosh of hair.
Musicians continued to influence the fashion house’s runway, either through direct homages (see last season’s Courtney Love tiara-crowned second-day texture and Fall 2015’s Siouxsie Sioux eyeshadow) or by rounding out Slimane’s lineup of leggy models. The plush-lipped Staz Lindes of the Paranoyds and the androgynous Julia Cumming of Sunflower Bean put down their instruments to take a public stroll in his latest displays of slips, leather, and slits—hemlines 2013 campaign girl Kim Gordon never shied away from. It all adds up to a love of, as Gordon once proclaimed on a T-shirt, the girls who invented punk rock, which, tonight, Slimane is primed to celebrate more directly than ever before. At 8:00 p.m. he’ll parade his Fall 2016 collection, and army of irrefutably cool models, at Los Angeles’s Hollywood Palladium Theater. Until then, here are the eight muses who prove, for Saint Laurent, the appeal of rock ’n’ roll will never die.
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