Photos: Monica Feudi / Indigital.tv; Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv; Indigital.tv
It’s hard to sell someone on the mid-length skirt. It’s neither the sexiest and shortest, nor the longest and goth-est. Its image doesn’t call up visions of Apollonias or Ophelias, and it’s not tied to a single season or setting like the hot summers of minis or the elegant evenings of gowns. All in all, the silhouette is, well, very middling.
But for Fall 2016 designers are sure going to try to make it happen. The mid-calf length first appeared at Hedi Slimane’s fashion extravaganza in Los Angeles, where nearly every skirt, dress, and culotte was cut straight across the models’ shinbones. Worn with tight, knee-high boots, the shape had a crisp ’70s feeling at Saint Laurent, the kind of thing you might see Marianne Faithfull or Diane Keaton trying out for a sexy date night.
Photos: Indigital.tv; Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv; Monica Feudi / Indigital.tv
By the time the look arrived in New York, the sexy connotations were gone, replaced by a magpie-like artiness. At Rodarte, tiers of lace crept downward over frilled boots, while at Marc Jacobs feather-trim tweeds and laser-cut leather skirts ended just below the knee to reveal the designer’s teetering platforms. Proenza Schouler, longtime lovers of a shin-length skirt, showed the shape in thin knits and bands of crepe rendered into midi dresses. Perhaps after years of practice, Proenza’s downtown clientele have mastered the shape, which can prove to be tricky for those among us with calf muscles or statures under 5 foot 7. We’ll have to learn, though, and quick, if we want to pull off Burberry’s prim dresses or a check pencil skirt with the aplomb of model Teddy Quinlivan.
Photographed by Phil Oh
Watch all of our Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear videos:
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