The MePa can be a pretty lonely place at 8 a.m.
Since last june, Santina was open for breakfast Monday through Friday starting at 8 a.m. But now Major Food’s terrific MePa restaurant is kicking things off at 10 a.m. daily. Instead of the full breakfast menu, we now get a hybrid of breakfast and lunch. The egg sandwich and rock shrimp frittata are now listed alongside branzino crudo, squash carpaccio, and eggplant sessamo. The almond pancakes are totally gone, and the pastry basket is no more. The panettone French toast? Please. It got sucked through a black hole. This is basically a brunch menu minus some of the sweets and an extensive list of egg dishes.
Back in July, Ryan Sutton filed a glowing assessment of Santina’s breakfast. Eater’s critic concluded: “The establishment is a lesson in how to keep the chef-driven vision of a restaurant intact, even while giving patrons what they want (or what they don’t yet know they want), at a time when many of them wish they weren’t in a restaurant (or quite frankly anywhere outside of bed).”
As great as Santina’s breakfast was — and it was great — the dining room was never more than a quarter full. Maybe this is just a seasonal change. But Pastis showed the world that daily breakfast can work in the MePa, so hopefully the Major Food braintrust will give it another go at some point.
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