#ItsLit was the futuristic tagline of Jeremy Scott’s most recent collection for Moschino—which featured deconstructed, semi-burned, and literally smoking dresses and tuxedos set against a Baroque mansion in ruins. But the show’s beauty inspiration was decidedly retro. Like last season’s runway show, which riffed off Linda Evangelista’s iconic tousled pixie, Scott referenced ’90s era supermodels for hair and makeup inspiration, passing a picture of Cindy Crawford from MTV’s House of Style to hairstylist Paul Hanlon to help define the look. “She’s [Cindy] got, like, the leather jacket, and that very ’80s hair that’s flipped to one side, with texture that looks like she’s just been in the sea—Gisele hair,” Hanlon says. “Not too vampy.”
Photographed by Peter Lindbergh, Vogue, September 1991
Models donned a variety of hats, including leather caps that brought to mind Peter Lindbergh’s iconic Vogue shoot, which took the supermodel elite to Brooklyn in 1991; whimsical headpieces; and manes yanked back into anti-ballerina knots. Across the different looks, Hanlon created a modernized version of ’80s-era hair, focusing on body and punky, almost synthetic-seeming, texture. One part toxic glamour and one part biker chick, the streetwise, she’s-come-undone style just might take over the street style scene during the remainder of Milan Fashion Week.
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