“It’s all about the silhouette,” Guido Palau said backstage at Marc Jacobs tonight, where the hairstylist was busy fashioning dual-textured finger waves into models like Lexi Boling and Natalie Westling’s long locks. What was sleek and center-parted on top (thanks to a slick of Redken’s Hardwear 16 Super-Strong Gel and some impressive comb-work) was dry and frothy through the lengths, creating a small and tight dichotomy to all of Jacobs’s oversized runway designs.
Still, it was the sparkling, glossy ridges spotted on short-haired girls like Mari Agory that warranted an actual double take. Both models showed up to the Park Avenue Armory with buzz cuts, prompting Palau to dream up a hand-drawn trompe l’oeil variation of that runway hair—with a twist. “[Women] did it a lot in the ’20s,” Palau explained of the technique, which involved penciling in the perfect wave along the hairline. For the task, he enlisted the help of body artist Anastasia Durasova and makeup artist François Nars. Using NARS’s Eyeliner in Black Moon, Durasova traced free-form waves along the hairline that came to a point at the nape of the neck. Then, armed with a small brush and the brand’s Eye Paint in Black Valley, she filled in the entire head, staying between the lines of her sketch. A dusting of custom-mixed black glitter completed the look—an add-on that was Jacobs’s idea, according to Palau. “Everyone loves glitter, right?” (Right.)
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